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AFRICA’S
GARMENT SECTOR:
Making Suppliers to the U.S. Market Accountable on Labor Rights
The demand for cheap
production and quicker delivery of “brand” products to US markets is a
well known strategy that multinational corporations impose on garments
factories in Sub Saharan Africa. The pressure to produce cheaply and
quickly is usually laid on factory workers who are forced to work at a
faster rate under poor workplace health and safety conditions.
Speaking at the Economic
Policy Institute in Washington DC, African labor organizers from
Lesotho, Kenya and South Africa told the audience about hardships that
garment workers endure to produce brand-name merchandize for U.S.
customers at Gap Inc, Levi Strauss, Calvin Klein, and Jeanswear. Kids
“R” Us, K-Mart, J.C. Penny and Wal-Mart have all also bought garments
from Sub Saharan Africa.
Factory workers are subjected
to long working hours and unpaid over-time, often working seven days a
week. The wages are low, so workers have trouble paying their children’s
schools fees and don’t have enough money for food and transport to work.
The women workers are the most severely affected and this pushes them
into prostitution where they are vulnerable to contracting HIV/AIDS.
Factory sites have poor health
and safety standards, and there is no job security because many people
are employed as casual workers. They are thus vulnerable to illegal
dismissal and abuse by management. Trade union affiliation is
discouraged, making it difficult for workers to petition any workplace
complaint.
Garment and textile factories
have cropped up across Sub Saharan Africa due to the African Growth
and Opportunity Act (AGOA) which was signed in 2000. AGOA was an
expansion of the US general system of trade preferences and authorizes
the duty-free and tariff free export of products. Under this measure, an
attempt to foster development on the continent, African producers enjoy
special access to the US market including duty free and quota free
access.
Despite the labor rights
provisions in AGOA, enforcement of such rights typically is very weak
for African factories exporting to the US market once African nations
have eliminated all barriers to US trade and investments. The Uganda
case of Tri Star is a case in point. Striking workers at this supplier
to the US market were fired upon under a Presidential order because of
fear that a strike would scare away investors.
With AGOA’s failure to protect
African workers’ labor rights, it is important that new solutions be
proposed to force garment manufacturers exporting to the U.S. market to
follow International Labor Organization standards aggressively.
One such solution is to pass
the legislation by U.S. Representative
Jim McDermott
(D-WA) called New Partnership for Development Act of 2007 (NPDA).
This act, H.R. 3905 introduced on 18th October 2007, intends to
support efforts to aid the world’s least developed nations. It also
would reduce duties on imports from the world's poorest countries, many
of which are in Africa.
The
legislation provides capacity-building resources and creates incentives
for sustainable economic growth such as making trade deals permanent.
This Act primarily targets
countries that the United Nations identifies as "Least Developed"
countries (LDCs). Important to factory workers, it would require
recipient nations to adopt and maintain core labor rights as identified
by the International Labor Organization. The AGOA labor rights provision
is weak, unreliable and inadequate to protect working families in
Africa. It fails to hold suppliers to the US market accountable for
following internationally recognized labor standards. It is time to make
globalization better by helping people move from these poor-paying and
insecure jobs.
As members of the Interfaith
Center for Corporate Responsibility, the Oblate JPIC Office will
continue to dialogue and file resolutions, calling on international
corporations to hold accountable their suppliers from developing
countries on labor rights to their employees.
“Footloose Investors: Investing in the Garment Industry in Africa”
(August 2007) published by
SOMO, Centre for Research on Multinational Corporations
International Labor Rights Forum
H.R. 3905: New Partnership for Development Act of 2007
More Information Contact:
gngolwe@omiusa.org
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